The city’s wannabe fashion cognoscenti was out in full force at the France Pavilion on Sunday (27 February) for the unveiling of Jean Paul Gaultier’s new and fully recyclable exhibition, as well as the opportunity to meet the personable prêt-à-porter and haute couture designer himself.
Gaultier, whose designs have been worn by the likes of Rihanna, Beyoncé, Madonna and Lady Gaga, ceremoniously quit the industry in early 2020, but the legendary coutier, who turns 70 in April, continues to show the world that fashion still courses through his veins.
Despite Gaultier being a man who needs no introduction, during his welcome speech, exhibition curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot presented the designer as “the obvious choice” to represent France at Expo 2020 Dubai, because of his “universal values that can be understood by all.”
Loriot’s 17th exhibition, and his first in the Middle East, coincides with Gaultier’s first ever visit to Dubai. And the gregarious designer is suitably impressed.
Gaultier said: “In some cities, the architecture only works well at night because of the lights, but Dubai is beautiful both during the day and at night-time.”
‘Jean Paul Gaultier, from A to Z’, is more than just a retrospective; it is a journey across almost five decades that showcases his values of tolerance, humanity, inclusion and commitment. Open to Expo visitors until 31 March, it will then be transported to Marseille, France.
Loriot said: “This is the first green exhibition at Expo 2020 Dubai that actually will be completely recycled. Jean always loved to recycle his own creations.”
Indeed, some of the more unconventional designs on display form part of an ‘Upcycling’ section, with a garbage bag dress, tin can jewellery and a scouring pad, which manages to not look out of place alongside Madonna’s infamous cage corset in black vinyl, or Kylie Minogue’s ‘Barbarella’ silver-and-gold body corset. One of the most eye-catching items, a brown taffeta evening gown, took 1,700 manhours, between 1997 and 1998, to hand-sew the rhinestone embroidery onto the leopard-print fabric.
Crediting his parents for “allowing him to be himself,” Gaultier said: “Growing up I was a loser on the football pitch, so I started to sketch. My parents were always very open to different kinds of people.”
This openness, together with his ability to constantly break the codes of fashion, is reflective in both Gaultier’s work and his choice of catwalk models. “I like strong women, like the Spice Girls, and I like to show the more fragile side to men,” he said.
French-Algerian documentary filmmaker and former model Farida Khelfa, who had a front row seat at today’s talk, was one of those women. “At the time, the catwalk was full of sweet Swedish models, but Farida had attitude and force. She walked down the runway chewing gum!” laughs Gaultier.
With Loriot insisting that Gaultier’s works are examples of cultural appreciation as opposed to appropriation, he concluded: “Gaultier and this exhibition encapsulate a strong social message about tolerance, love, acceptance and diversity.”
The ‘Jean Paul Gaultier, from A to Z’ exhibition at the France Pavilion runs until 31 March. Entry is free for all Expo 2020 Dubai ticket-holders.